Gold and Cash HACK
What are PP and EVO
These are the numbers under the name of the car. PP is the BHP of the car in stock or updated form & Evo is the extra performance you have for using fusion parts or tuning your car. For example, you’ve got 300 +100. In together with the, 300 is the PP and +100 is the EVO or EP as NM refers to it. Does together with the mean 400 total? NO! Most people think its additional likely to be: 300 + (100/10) = 310 in total (this is just a guess merely NM knows the true value of those 2 numbers combined).
For tier 1 through tier 3, in live races, it’s usually best to have a low PP and a high EVO (you’re aiming for an EVO of somewhere between 500-700+). After we had been enjoying for a couple months, we stumbled upon a video which talked about how to acquire keys in live racing using a Golf GTi, so we updated the NOS, tires, and trans on a GTi (one we had gotten from a crate) and left everything else stock, added fusion parts to those updates, tuned it, and found it was a pretty fantastic way to start out grinding for keys. The numbers for which build and tune were 231 +527 (we kept track of those numbers, as we were curious if it would work and wished to remember them if it did.).
For tiers 4 & 5, have a tune which may race close to, or slightly under, your dyno time and has an EVO of somewhere between 700-1000+; together with the is your goal. You’re searching for a 50% acquire ratio. Winning a lot of races in a row & having a acquire ratio over 50% feels great, but it will usually bump you into a quicker lobby (e.g. you will be forced to race quicker & quicker opponents). It’s even important to find the right lobby for any live racing you do. If you lose several in a row (and they are killing your run times), back out and re-enter. There are a lot of complaints about match-making in the multi-player part of CSR2 and sometimes we have frustrated as well, but together with time and effort, you’ll be able to do it.
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