What are PP and EVO
These are the numbers under the name of the car. PP is the BHP of the car in stock or updated form & Evo is the extra performance you get for using fusion parts or tuning your car. For example, you’ve got 300 +100. In with the, 300 is the PP and +100 is the EVO or EP as NM refers to it. Does with the mean 400 total? NO! Most people think its additional likely to be: 300 + (100/10) = 310 in total (this is just a guess simply NM knows the true value of those 2 numbers combined).
For tier 1 through tier 3, in live races, it’s usually best to have a low PP and a high EVO (you’re aiming for an EVO of somewhere between 500-700+). After we had been enjoying for a couple months, we stumbled upon a video which talked about how to acquire keys in live racing using a Golf GTi, so we updated the NOS, tires, and trans on a GTi (one we had gotten from a crate) and left everything else stock, added fusion parts to those updates, tuned it, and found it was a pretty fantastic way to begin out grinding for keys. The numbers for which build and tune were 231 +527 (we kept track of those numbers, because we were curious if it would work and wished to remember them if it did.).
For tiers 4 & 5, have a tune which can race close to, or slightly under, your dyno time and has an EVO of somewhere between 700-1000+; with the is your goal. You’re looking for a 50% acquire ratio. Winning a lot of races in a row & having a acquire ratio over 50% feels great, but it will usually bump you into a quicker lobby (e.g. you will be forced to race quicker & quicker opponents). It’s also vital to discover the right lobby for any live racing you do. If you lose several in a row (and they are killing your run times), back out and re-enter. There are a lot of complaints about match-making in the multi-player part of CSR2 and sometimes we get frustrated as well, but with time and effort, you can do it.
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